Saturday, March 9, 2013

Honeymoon 1 (Hanoi) - Final Thoughts

I can't help but compare Vietnam with Cambodia. Actually most people do that, I think the reason is because of their geographical closeness, that they were once part of the French IndoChina, and that they are currently both developing countries - lotsa similarities. 

Both countries have their uniqueness of course, but let me sum up my personal thoughts below: 

1. Safety: 

Both countries are relatively safe. I didn't witness any incidences of snatch thefs. As for pickpocketing, I don't think it's very common as well, based on my general feel. Guidebooks/online sources may exaggerate it because after all, it's better to be safe than sorry. But I did feel less comfortably safe in Cambodia compared to Vietnam. I had this uneasy feeling of being riped off.. whether be it directly, or indirectly. That's a part of my definition of safety. Because if I was paranoid about something, I'll naturally feel unsafe. 

As for Vietnam, because of the way the locals are so "arrogantly" confident about their own products and because they were less "desperate" than Cambodians, I kinda felt safer in a weird way... if that makes any sense at all. 

2. Language: 

Vietnam reminds me of the accused "arrogance" of the French people. When I was in Paris, most do now even bother to learn English, the reason I was told was that they were so proud of their language, they didn't find the need to do so. Tourists should compromise instead and learn their language. Not sure how true it is, and I'm not sure if it's a coincidence that the French culture is still dominant in Vietnamese culture, but all I know is that there's a larger language barrier compared to Cambodia. 

Cambodians is so touristy (not that Vietnam isn't) that a lot of the locals take up many languages to communicate with the tourists. 

3. Currency: 

While both USD could be used in both countries, it's recommended to use USD in Cambodia, and Dong in Vietnam. Somehow you tend to save more if you were to transact in Dong in Vietnam, because you lose some $$ as the lowest USD is a dollar, and they'll have to find change in Dong, so they use the unofficial exchange rate (which isn't good). As for Cambodia, you don't have much choice. Most transactions are done in USD. If you were to use Riel, locals would give the awkward look, because there's no standard exchange rate in Cambodia, and calculating to-and-back between the currencies will take a mental toll on the locals because most aren't given the opportunity of education. 

The similarity for both is that more rural towns will naturally use their local currencies instead of USD. 

4. Traffic and Roads/Pavements: 

I think comparing Cambodia's traffic to Vietnam's is like comparing Amok with Pho, no link at all. Because Vietnam's traffic so bad, one can naturally compare it with any country in the world and it will undoubtedly rank as the top 3. 

Never had to increase the flow of my blood, set my alertness level to 12, 10 being the max, and heave a breath of relief everytime we crossed the streets (only for the first few days, you'll get the knack of it). After going through that, you'll be sure you'll be able to cross any roads in the world. Good training. Just like scuba diving at Pulau Hantu in Singapore... as the divers would always say, it's so bad, anywhere else would be chicken feet (random comparison but relevant in my context, but that's another story, for another time). 

Roads and pavements wise, because of the traffic and the lack of parking space, the vehicles tend to park along the walking pavements, which aren't well paved in the first place. Jutting concrete bricks with potholes/depressions are a common sight in both countries, so be careful when you walk the streets. A pointer that's linked to safety. 

Traffic lights are mostly for show, with the exceptions of the major junctions, where there would be policeman/traffic controllers stationed there. That's for Vietnam. As for Cambodia, from what I can remember, the locals still do obey traffic rules, generally. 

In Singapore, whenever 2 vehicles are involved in an accident, the ingrained citizens would get out of their vehicles, take lotsa photos, exchange particulars, might even exchange a few words of vulgarities blah blah blah.. and get their insurance companies to settle the mess they created. One wouldn't get to experience such comical, irresponsible and reliant behavior in both Cambodia and Vietnam. 

Unless it's a serious accident where the motorists are injured, they would normally just move on with their lives. That's why most vehicles aren't in tip-top conditions, scratches and dents being a common sight, but at least there's more graciousness and life goes on. 

I would like to include a disclaimer, that I am not ridiculing my fellow Singaporeans, I believe the reason is cos of our local hefty vehicle costs that we treat them like gold... but thought it's something we should learn from other less well-off, less developed countries. 

I saw more accidents in Vietnam compared to Cambodia, but minor ones in general. So overall, I would say the drivers in Vietnam and Cambodia are both more skilful than Singaporeans. Hmm.. since when did Singapore come into the picture... 

5. People: 

I think the locals in Vietnam are friendlier, more sincere and less scheming than Cambodians. The negative description I have of Cambodians is because of the greater number of times I was ripped off in Cambodia, hence the harshness. I am in no way racist, and it's NOT a sweeping statement to imply that ALL Cambodians are so, just the majority of those I came across with. 

In terms of talents, I think Vietnamese are more artistic and original compared to Cambodians. I tend to see lotsa duplicate souvenirs in Cambodia, but similar to Taiwan, Vietnam has "special featured" souvenirs in some shops that you wouldn't get to see anywhere else. They tend to to be more creative, more imaginative, and more skilled, observerable by the intricate handwoven souvenirs. 

I believe the reason for this, is because most Cambodians are living in a tougher, less comfortable life, and they tend to focus more on their survivability by finding means to earn more $$ unlike Vietnamese, who are more "comfortable", and less desperate in a sense. Poverty sure is a b****. 

We had more interaction with tourists during our trip in Vietnam, so contrary to what it looks on the surface of the different cultures of the 2 countries, each has it's own "touristy wonder". 

Hospitality of the staff from the respective accoms were all a thumbs up, especially those highly reccomended by Tripadvisor (those hostels/hotels which won Best Traveller's Choice). This rings true for Taiwan as well. 

6. Scenery:

Cambodia is a more scenic, and unique country when it comes to its attractions. Angkor Wat and its temple compounds are absolutely memorable, which I'm sure even applies to the most well-travelled tourists. It wasn't just an eye-opener, it was an adventure. 

Vietnam, on the other hand, was simply an eye-opener, less, if any, of an adventure. As previously mentioned, Vietnam seems to harness a whole wealth of hidden beauties, which to the common eye, will be conveniently overlooked. No 2 countries are the same, each has it's own beauties and uniqueness, but when it comes to scenery, Cambodia beats Vietnam hands down. 

And here's my final conclusion... if you were to ask me which do I prefer? 

I prefer Vietnam. 

If I could only go back to either one country again, which would it be? 

It would be Cambodia... Ah, the irony in life... 

Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Day 8: Hanoi City (St. Joseph's Cathedral, Women's Museum, Ngoc Son Temple @ Hoan Kiem Lake)



Our last day in Vietnam was jam-packed alright, we had wanted to hit one more tourist hotspot before returning to Singapore and we unanimously voted, actually it was more skewed towards my preference because I was exceptionally curious to check out the #1 ranking attraction in Hanoi on tripadvisor, the Women's Museum. We stopped by St. Joseph's Cathedral again since it was along the way.


While we were able to see more clearer the intricate details of the architecture during the day, it didn't look as holy without the fairy lights. Not having much time for sightseeing that morning, we hurried along to the museum.

The exterior of the Women's museum looked very modernized, and somehow rather artsy. There were 4 levels to explore, and we did a quickie, not the kind of quickie couples do when they're alone, but the kind of sightseeing couples do when time is not a luxury (lame..). We combed the place from the top to the bottom, and spent no longer than 5 minutes on any featured displays.


There was even a "secret attic floor" which showcased Singapore's culture! Actually it reminded me of a museum trip in Singapore my dear and I went sometime back. The displays were similar, with the seemingly traditional and "uniquely Singaporean" hanging chinese clogs and our local dishes (fake of course). 

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The different levels showcased different eras/sides of respectable enduring Vietnamese women... from fashion, to family, to the historical military "nu qiang rens (independent power women)", the museum was indeed a place which glorifies the local women. However, quite strangely, there weren't many tourists there, and during the first hour, it almost felt like we owned the entire place. Well I guess there's still some male chauvinism which exists in our modern day culture which explains why I don't see many couples there, mostly female tourists. 

But to be brutally frank, the museum didn't make it to my list of top few attractions in Vietnam. I'm not sure if it was because the visitation was very rushed, or was it because it's too "museum-like" for me, or even because it was almost dead quiet due to lack of people... but it just reinforces my lack of love for museums. There were some interesting sights and displays, but having to walk all the way there, pay a huge admission fee (relative to the admission fees of the other attractions in Vietnam), winning the top spot for attractions in Hanoi on tripadvisor, it was just er... pretty ordinary. 

The souvenir shop however, did have some interesting stuff for sale and we even bought a coconut shelled handbag! 



On our way back, we also passed by a local cinema and it was rather eye-opening to see movie posters with Vietnamese text on them. However, like the Women's museum, the cinema also looked pretty deserted. 



I guess it was either too early, or that young couples would rather spend time chilling out Hoan Kiem Lake or riding on bikes and eating ice-creams along the roadside. Guess their definition of romance is more traditional to Singapore's... where the majority of dates have to have some "activity" in them. 

Bought a "you tiao" along the way, and which looked exactly but tasted nowhere like our local "you tiao". It was more doughnutty, sweet doughnutty and the only similarity is the amount of oil used to fry them... which as like Singapore's soaked the paper wrapper within seconds. 



Hoan Kiem Lake actually looked equally picturesque in the day, even without the night lights. Our last and final attraction for the trip, and day was Ngoc Son Temple. In the temple, on display is a gargantuan bronze turtle, to pay tribute to the turtle who gave and took away Emperor Le Loi's magic sword, Heaven's Will. 

There's 2 souvenir shops in there, with well-coordinated pricing which is a good place to buy some last minute souvenirs because the stuff sold there was unexpectedly cheaper than other standalone shops (we checked out the same souvenirs at different souvenir shops and the price difference was about -30%!). 

There's a nice pavilion at the rear, and which faces the open waters, giving a scenic and peaceful view of Hoan Kiem Lake which is well worth the trip there. Though smaller than most temples, it gives an different, more calming feel when we're there, possibly because it oversees an enclosed lake compared to Tran Quoc Pagoda. There was a "safer" feeling of protection and was enhanced by the presence of the mythological turtle residing in the temple itself. 



We had our last meal at a nearby shop selling mostly pork-y stuff and the meat was ooiiissshhiii! Grilled  pork (I think it's boar meat, tougher with a stronger pork flavor) soaked in sourish dips, crispy-fried "Nyo hiang-styled" pork rolls and innocently looking dried rice noodles which tasted not-to-our-liking sour. We also met this good-looking couple from Hong Kong, which we were almost certain were models. 


Even though we had intended to say farewell to Tina and the rest of the staff from Holiday Gold Hotel, we unfortunately couldn't find the time to do so. Leaving after a heartfelt meal, we grew hungry yet again at the airport. However, we didn't have much choice, so we settled for western food, burgers... and bought a couple of other souvenirs (including a cutesey mouth cover and a ship figure made from real seashells) in hope of spending all our leftover dongs.

I didn't like the waiting time we had to "waste" in wait for our flight, and though months have passed, I can still fondly remember the times we spent in Vietnam. Though it's not a common place to visit for honeymoons, and as much as I would love to convince myself that the trip there with dear was simply a pre-honeymoon, I'll have to admit I enjoyed myself so much that I'm glad to say that I chose Vietnam to be our "Honeymoon 1".